Take off your shoes.
Take off your new shoes.
And prepare your heart.
This is what the experience of three weeks in Korea has meant to me.
It
was a moment to take off my shoes, to enter into the Korean way of
being at home, in slippers, leaving the “outside” shoes in a cupboard
in the hall. But then it was necessary to take off even the new shoes
that were given in exchange in order to enter the bedroom or the
bathroom. A call, indeed, to prepare the heart for the new ways of
being and of doing that would mark the weeks ahead. I had visited Asia
before- in 1964 with my mother, and then with JRS in the 90’s. This
time I had the joy of getting to know a province of the Society, not
just visiting as a tourist or for the specific purpose of working in a
refugee setting.
The meeting took place at the
Retreat House run by rscj in Paju, about 45 minutes from Seoul. When
the property was bought five years ago, it was a very rural area, but
now the fields are gone and the house and the adjoining noviceship are
dwarfed by high rise buildings on every side. Each detail was looked
after with care, and attention to detail so that each one felt special.
Meals were very interesting, with some familiar ingredients put
together in new and colorful ways, and with sesame oil, ginger, hot
paste, and the ever-present kimchee which is beyond me. Definitely
different…. but accessible to our foreign palates! I found the chapel a
real invitation to prayer of simplicity, with its tabernacle in the
shape of a Korean house and ceramic cross made by one rscj. Creativity
is a hallmark of the Korean rscj: playing the violin, singing, all
shared in very meaningful liturgies and prayer services. Something of
the oriental contemplative touched me very deeply, and I found myself
eager to learn the way of prostrations, or keep my back straight in
prayer, but above all, to listen to the silence of the gong.
Seoul
is a modern city, bristling with tall buildings built in groups of 6-8,
identical, with a only a number on the side for identification. Swamps,
rivers are crisscrossed by elegant modern bridges. There are ample
freeways, but rush traffic is there, all the same! Palaces and temples
are tucked into corners, and traditional roofs peek here and there in
between cement and glass. We passed Baskin Robbins, Pizza Hut, KFC,
Fench Baguette, “Golden Arches” with Korean writing…. Leaves changed
color during our stay, and it was the first time that some rscj from
other latitudes saw this happen, and were delighted. I don’t know what
I was expecting, but the maze that is downtown Seoul and the
aggressiveness of the hard lines of modern buildings presented quite a
contrast to the delicacy and gentleness of the rscj of the Korea
Province.
I
loved the way that our sisters enjoyed sharing with us, showing us
their national treasures, their way of life, their culture, the
treasures of their country and of the Korean province. We visited vast,
harmonious palaces with brightly painted woodwork. I loved looking at
the roofs with unique chimneys and tiles with lovely details. We
visited the Museum of Folklore, with its beautifully crafted
exhibitions of daily life, of occupations and celebrations, and of life
cycles. I could have spent days there. On a free afternoon some of us
went to visit a temple in the middle of the city. A monk chanted while
many came to pray and make offerings for the success of their
children’s entrance examinations. We were surprised to find such “loud”
worship, as we were expecting something rather along the lines of
silent contemplation… We visited the Sacred Heart School where many
find a very meaningful and needed ministry, and talked with other rscj
who are involved in Workers’ Unions, L’Arche, counseling for religious,
a shelter for runaway girls, and, of course, with the members of the
Retreat House community. The sense of history is something that remains
with me: history of the country, of the church, of the Society. The
novices and YPs certainly looked beautiful in their butterfly-like
Korean dresses.
When we visited the Church of the
Korean Martyrs, built in the shape of a typical hat and of the
guillotine used for beheading, I had strong sense of a “church of
martyrs”, a church built on blood and on the laity…. and heard
nostalgia for a church once egalitarian and based on participation.
Quite different from the church of today.
During
our most welcome free day, some of us went on a tour to the DMZ, the
“38th parallel” that I remember from childhood and the tales of
relatives who were then in the US Army. But we were disappointed
because it was such a commercial tour. The guide’s comments were full
of “we-they”, “good-bad” rhetoric, and of harrowing stories such as the
need to work the land under the protection of armed guards, or the
tunnels that are being dug to prepare an invasion from the north,
“Freedom Village” (South) and “Propaganda Village” (North) blasting
music at each other and boasting about who has the largest flag and
mast…. The military presence of the US looms very large…
The
meeting itself was interesting to me, as I sensed that the Society is
in a very different place from many years ago. Conversations did not go
along the lines of opposing ideologies or visions, of “north-south”,
“east-west”, “developed/developing” and all our other labels that often
pepper usual conversations. The differences of focus, of life styles,
and certainly where each provincial was coming from were all there, but
the fact that there has been a movement from “I” to “we – from
provinces to regions, was very significant. I was struck by the fact
that the provincials of Europe worked together as “Europe”, not
thinking of merging into one province, but having a focus, a thrust
coming from the currents that affect the continent as a whole. Latin
America, was, as always, vibrant, mindful of “el pueblo”, of the
grassroots, calling us to be attentive to the feminine dimension. Asia
was thrilled that as rscj we want to be open to their treasures, to
their spirituality, that the Society is taking on a more Asian face.
North America brought the gift of clear thinking and analysis. And
Africa dances to its own drummer, speaking from life and not from
theory or analysis. The provincials discussed in different groups: home
(mixed), by language, by regions. Every morning they reflected and
shared on the following questions: What happened? – not just material,
but in me. How did I feel? What did I learn? Where does this lead me?
There
was great interest in the international website. The image of used for
the inequality of access to Internet in the various provinces. The
image used was that of a train – local, milk train, TGV (fast train),
commuter… but all riding on a train… There was no sense of having to
catch it or look for it. All are on board, and the train is moving
albeit at different speeds!
It was difficult to
present something substantial in the Communications, because there was
a definite process, and it was difficult to share without giving wrong
impression on something that was not finished but evolved form day to
day. Definitely, at the end of the meeting there was a feeling that
there are no answers, but that each provincial was going home with
questions, questions to be shared with the province at large. Not being
a Chapter, there was no need to produce a document or to make
decisions, so there was a larger scope and more freedom to the
discussions.
At the end, Clare Pratt said, referring to account of the work to date presented in the Report of the Central Team,
“Some people wonder what we are going to do during the next five years!” Work is cut out for all after this Assembly!
When
I left Korea, I felt that I had befriended the change of shoes,
mastered which slippers to be worn where, to the point of forgetting
which shoes I had worn on arrival!

At the DMZ
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General Assembly
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Our Korean novices
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Eucharist in the Chapel of the Retreat House
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Going forth...
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Take off your shoes...
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